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Dye Techniques

 

Dyeing Techniques

Handspun wool dyed with woad
Most fabrics dyed with plant dyes need to be treated with a mordant to produce a light and water-fast colour but woad can be used without a mordant.

Traditionally a fermentation vat was used to dye with woad, often started with stale urine but madder roots can also be used to start the vat. The use of both madder and urine are discussed under the Fermentation method, below.

1. Fermentation Method
The fermentation removes the oxygen from the vat making the woad soluble. Wool or fabric is dipped into the vat, left for a few minutes, and then removed. At first the wool is pale yellow, but with exposure to air, the colour gradually turns to green and then to blue. Repeated dippings create a darker and darker blue.

2. Chemical Method
Nowadays, chemicals such as spectralite are often used to remove the oxygen from the vat. It can be difficult, however, to achieve a dark blue when using a Spectralite vat with silk, as the chemical removes the colour almost as fast as it is deposited. It is, however, easier to get a good colour with wool.

1. Natural Fermentation Vat for Dyeing with Woad

woad scum close-up

2. Chemical Method for dyeing with woad using Spectralite

dipping fabric in woad vat

Teresinha at Woad.org.uk
Studio I-135, The Custard Factory
Gibb St, Birmingham B9 4AA, UK

Contact Teresinha for enquiries on
Tel:      +44 (0)7979 770 865
email:    info@woad.org.uk

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Last updated on 30 January 2014
Website and photos by Mike Roberts                 © 2006-14 woad.org.uk